The Manifestation of the Political Tendencies of the Mamluk Sovereigns on Fabric Designs

Taghizadeh Borujeni, Robabeh; Bozorgmehr, Abbas; Akbarzade Niaki, Zahra

doi:10.22034/ias.2021.243735.1313

The Manifestation of the Political Tendencies of the Mamluk Sovereigns on Fabric Designs

Document Type : Original Article

Authors

¹ Master's degree, member of the faculty of art department, Hazrat Masoumeh University, Qom, Iran.

² P. H. D, Department of Painting, Faculty of Art and Architecture, University of Sistan and Baluchistan, Zahedan, Iran.

10.22034/ias.2021.243735.1313

Abstract

Textiles are one of the first necessities of human life that mankind has sought to meet since the day of creation. The study of the history of textiles shows that this man-made product has gradually undergone a developmental process and has experienced changes in gender and role in each appropriate period. Egypt is the origin of one of the most ancient human civilizations, so the study of textiles in this geography can answer many questions. One of the kingdoms that ruled Egypt for some time was the Mamluks (1250-1517 AD). Egyptian society in the Mamluk era was full of various textiles; Each of which in some way indicated the amount of wealth and status of its owners. The present study is a descriptive and analytical method based on archaeological and library data. The findings of the study indicate that the clothing of the Mamluk kings was much more than a luxurious garment. These rulers used art and technology as a tool to propagate their power and rule. Paying attention to clothes with colorful silk fabrics decorated with motifs and symbols of power and colors specific to each ruler in the Mamluk court cannot be considered without political goals. The use of clothing and disguise as political gifts, as well as the position of these works in the installation and dismemberment of the rulers, is a confirmation of the Mamluk strategy in its acceptance and identification as the only Islamic rulers accepted by the caliph. In accordance with this type of need, in this period, a style and method in fabric design was formed, which meets the political and social needs of the court. In this category of textiles, not only the titles and designations of kings have been used as an identity-making tool, but in many examples, these titles have been used alongside designs such as dragons, Simorghs, medallions, and lotuses, which were also used in China and are all related to the concept of power. In fact, the style of Mamluk textiles has met their political and identity needs.

Research goals:
1. Examining the situation of textiles during the reign of the Mamluks over Egypt.
2. Examining the role of the political goals of the Egyptian countries in the fabric designs.

Research questions:
1. What was the situation of textiles during the Mamluk rule over Egypt?
2. What was the reflection of the political goals and tendencies of the Egyptian countries in the fabric designs in this historical period?

Keywords

20.1001.1.1735708.1400.18.43.13.6

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